If you have not been to page 1 of this article, please click here.  This is the final page of the information on the interaction and functioning of the Harrington & Richardson early (pre-1940) Model 922 4th variation revolver.

This pistol presented itself with several issues.  It had been neglected for many years.  Apparently kept in a humid environment, inside a leather holster.  The metal was rusted and pitted in many places.  Someone had it apart in the past and the friction pin was not even in the gun.  There was no grip or grip screw.  Mechanically, the cylinder turned freely.  The cylinder rod looked like someone had beat it with a hammer.  The revolver would not cock into single action.  Timing was off.  The hammer would fall slightly before the cylinder aligned with the barrel.  I wanted to ensure that the pistol could be repaired before spending much time "conserving" the revolver.  Here are the steps that I followed.

I performed the following steps:
1) Disassembled
2) Cleaned / soaked and did some light hand carding of the metal surfaces
3) Straightened the cylinder pin
4) Machined the slave pins & studied exactly how the pistol functions
5) Spent time not believing that the cylinder stop/lock was not designed to really prevent the cylinder from turning both direction when engaged
6) Purchased a repo single piece grip & adapted a screw to hold the grip.  Learned that the grip screw also holds tension on the flat main spring

7) 1st reassembly:
-- Gun would cock into single action but would not reliably hold
-- Timing off.  Lifter (Hand) worn
-- Simple action of setting the gun down or just touching the cylinder can throw the cylinder out of alignment with the barrel
8) Disassembled
9)   Light Stoning of sear/hammer engagment point (Ensure correct angle + enlarge notch in in hammer to hold full cock)
10) Light polish of firing mechanism pivot points
11) Slight peen of hand (lifter) tip to the right

12) 2nd reassembly:
--- Single action / hammer cocked on functioning correctly
--- Action smoother
--- Timing now correct
--- Cylinder rod still difficult to remove
--- Appeared shootable

Conservation Steps:
13) Disassemble
14) Additional straightening & slight filing/smoothing of cylinder pin
15) Placed all metal parts into boiling water for 1 hour, then blow dry (Rust turns to ferric oxide / black)
16) Card revolver, parts, crevaces by carding + #0000 steel wool in tight areas (Removes carbon & gunk)
17) Soak in karosene overnight (Remove/displace all water) Dry
18) Oil

19) 3rd reassembly:
--- Testing

Here is the conserved and repaired revolver.  The revolver is not restored.  Conservation involves bringing back any existing bluing and removing rust only.  Any pits and wear remain.  This type of conservation is less likely to affect value of an old firearm.  As you can see this revolver is not of display quality.  Deep pitting remains.  Howevever, considering the previous condition it is now an acceptable shooter.
Image #10